Does AI food really understand Chinese consumers better?

In February this year, MUJI's flagship store in Beijing introduced a snack called "AI Fries" in its snack section. This product comes in three flavours: "Southeast Asian," "Chinese," and "Western," each priced at 9 RMB ($1.20) for 50 grams. The packaging prominently states, "developed through 3 trillion simulations to balance various ingredients, this is the flavour AI believes humans will enjoy."

MUJI's AI Fries packaging maintains the brand's signature minimalist and elegant style. The image is from Shobserver.

Although there is no information yet on the sales performance of this product, consumer feedback on social media suggests it may not be very successful. On platforms like Weibo, RED, and Bilibili, most people were initially surprised and associated it with ChatGPT. However, after trying the product, the general response has been quite negative, with some humorously suggesting, "AI-created food should be eaten by AI itself."

While many people find this snack intriguing, reviews on social media are generally negative. Images are from RED, Weibo and Bilibili.

Many people have criticized the so-called "Western" and "Chinese" flavours of these fries as relying on regional stereotypes. For example, with the "Chinese" flavour, few consumers reported enjoying the taste. Instead, many said it reminded them of medicinal herbs, chicken soup, braised meat, or even Huoxiang Zhengqi Liquid (a type of traditional Chinese medicine). It seems as though the flavours were a hodgepodge of stereotypical Chinese elements, lacking in coherence and depth.

In fact, many in the Chinese food & beverage industry is increasingly leveraging AI technology due to its advantages in cost and production efficiency. Since early 2023, numerous examples have demonstrated the wide application of AI technology. For instance, Luckin Coffee's orange latte product poster was designed by AI, Yili Group has started using AI for designing milk packaging, and Coca-Cola's limited-edition “Y 3000” product claims to use AI for everything from naming and flavour selection to packaging design and marketing.

Images show some AI-designed beverage products that have appeared in the Chinese market since 2023. Images are from Sohu.com

However, most successful AI applications so far have been outside of flavour development or have served a supportive role within it. In China, the booming RTE meal industry has heightened consumer demand for fresh and healthy food. Busy schedules and fast-paced lifestyles make people increasingly inclined to enjoy dishes with wok aroma in their downtime. AI-designed foods often come across as a fleeting technological novelty, offering a brief sense of freshness but struggling to evoke human touch.

Images are from the popular Chef Fei Chili Stir-Fry restaurant in China, which promotes itself with the slogan "Stir-Fried to Perfection." Images are from RED.

As Alibaba founder Jack Ma once said, "AI has immense potential, but humans have hearts with warmth." This mirrors the cautionary "high-tech, low-life" scenes from many early 21st-century cyberpunk films. Just as countless classic and timeless brands in history symbolize more than just a single product for consumers—representing a consensus that has stood the test of time—AI technology struggles to offer that same level of pure, authentic, and unique perception.